Today I tasted…. Osborne Capuchino VORS Palo Cortado
I think I’ve shown great restraint waiting until the third day of International Sherry Week before cracking open a Palo Cortado – undoubtedly my favourite type of sherry. And this particular one has been calling to me from the shelf of Drinkmonger, our local sherrylover’s paradise, for some months now. In fact the first time I saw it, it was in a slightly different bottle and branded as Domecq!
The solera for this Palo Cortado was established in 1790, and was previously owned by Domecq. Ownership of this and the other Domecq VORS soleras has only recently transferred to Osborne. The wine is an average of 30 years old, confirmed by carbon dating to achieve the VORS classification.
On the nose, Capuchino has classic Palo Cortado aromas of resin and wood polish, along with burnt caramel and vanilla reminiscent of creme brulee or creme caramel.
The first mouthful was a bit of a surprise as it’s fuller bodied than a lot of Palo Cortados. Admittedly they vary but this was very weighty in the mouth with a real glyceric feel. Flavours of resin and polish persisted, along with a real citrussy zip. There was also a surprising amount of alcoholic burn. These all gave way to a long toasted hazelnut finish with hints of pencil shavings and spice.
This is not the most well-integrated VORS Palo Cortado I’ve ever tasted, so it doesn’t really hold its own against offerings from Urium, Rey Fernando de Castilla and Tradicion. However, it was considerably better with food – I had it with beef teriyaki and noodles. Paula from Drinkmonger (the absolute oracle on all things sherry – check out her blog here) reckons the sister Oloroso is the standout wine from this range, so I’m going to try that too before the week is out. Watch this space…..