Today I tasted…. Dios Baco Amontillado
Dios Baco is a relatively new sherry brand, founded in 1992 when the Paez Morilla family (famous for their sherry vinegars) bought one of the Palomino & Vergara bodegas when that company folded. According to Peter Liem and Jesus Barquin’s book, Sherry, Manzanilla and Montilla, the new brand gets its name from a small shrine to Bacchus in the corner of the bodega, created by the former cellar master.
I haven’t been able to find out this wine’s average age, but given that it is part of the bodega’s entry-level range rather than from a premium, it’s safe to assume an average of about 8 years. If anyone out there knows the answer, please do let me know. The wine is 18% ABV.
Pouring into the glass, this Amontillado is a bright, pale amber. The predominant aroma is of butterscotch, complemented by almonds and hazelnuts.
Take a slurp and it’s dry and surprisingly savoury. Very savoury in fact, but with hints of butterscotch too. The nuts are there again, along with a citrus tang and spicy white pepper. As Stuart said after his first taste,
it’s switched on every zone in my mouth
Because of all the umami flavours going on, this is a cracking companion to food. We tried it with lomo a la plancha (grilled pork loin), jamon and strong cheese – it held its own against each of them and really enhanced each dish. I think it would be brilliant with japanese and thai food too, but have yet to try.
This is certainly not an Amontillado I’d recommend to a first-timer. Whilst the usual flavours of Amontillado are there, it is also strongly umami and aromatic in character and certainly not a ‘typical’ example of Amontillado. But would I drink it again? Well this is my second bottle, so that probably tells you all you need to know.